March 16, 2017
It was after 2pm, and we didn't have anywhere to be until we checked into our hotel in Newport at 3. P was hungry after our sightseeing in Nevern and Pentre Ifan, so we thought we'd stop to get something to eat on our way to Newport. So of course, instead of eating we ended up at the picturesque Gwaun Valley Brewery (Cwrw Cwm Gwaun).
Un-discovered Wales?
So, the Gwaun Valley is part of what guidebooks describe as 'undiscovered southern Wales'. Since people have been living here for over 8000 years (as we learned exploring the Golden Road the next day), I have a hard time understanding how a place like this can really be called 'undiscovered' when it appears to be literally one the most discovered places on the planet. But I guess it means English people pass by in favor of the Pembrokeshire beach resorts - English vacation-going of course being the hallmark of a place being 'discovered.'
Also the people who live here celebrate New Years on January 13th - following the pre 1752 Julian calendar. So to me this feels less like 'undiscovered' and more a Welsh 'Land of the Lost'. Sans dinosaurs.
Anyway, the beer
In any case, the lack of dinosaurs is neither here nor there. I'd 'discovered' the Gwaun Brewery myself online when I was trying to find someplace to stay in the area. They have what looks like a great self-catering cottage - but obviously they want to rent it by the week, not by the day. And it was still a bit chilly to consider camping there - though they have a great deal (only 8 pounds) for tents.
But we drove into the dirt turnoff and were greeted by a small white barn complex with red doors. Also a hand painted sign that tells you that if they aren't in the brewery to go to the farmhouse down the road and yell for them to come out. Immediately reminded of Maine 30 years ago, I instantly fell in love.
Even better when we got inside. On the outside very different than the Cwrw Llyn Brewery in North Wales, on the inside we were once again greeted by friendly friendly friendly friendly brewery owners. One is Welsh, the other Scottish, and both were lovely to chat with.
Over some samples of the two casks they had on tap, we talked about walking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, including where to camp; the Dinas Head walk that we took later that day; the time they met the woman who was hiking the Wales Coast Path with a donkey (and I learned to my relief why it took her nearly a year to complete it. Obviously when I think about it - the donkey couldn't climb the ladder stiles - so they had to walk around all the fences, which took forever); walks they'd done in North Wales; that they'd started the Brewery 8 years ago; and that they hoped we'd come sometime for the live music every Saturday night.
They had quite a few types of beer that we hadn't been able to try and we wanted to buy a variety pack. Unfortunately, because of the lack of cel service in the area, they only took cash. And unfortunately, because we always fail to have any cash on us whatsoever, we could only scrape together enough change out of the drink holders in the car to buy one beer.
That said - I'm drinking it right now (the dark amber colored Gwaun Valley Pembrokeshire Best Bitter that tastes like a nice piece of toast) as I write this. And I can guarantee I will be going back to get more.
